homemade roll press with your own hands

When you hear about a “homemade roll press with your own hands?”, you immediately imagine a bunch of videos where everything is assembled from scrap metal over the weekend. The reality is, of course, more complicated. Many people think that the main thing is to weld the frame and install hydraulics, but they forget about balance, roll density and reliability of components under load. I went through this myself.

Where do they usually start and where do they go wrong?

Most often, old components from decommissioned equipment are taken as a basis - for example, a drive and a pressing chamber from ?Kyrgyzstan? or PPR-F. This is logical, but here is the first pitfall: geometry. If you do not count the fastenings and strengthen the load points, at the first tight winding the frame may move or, worse, the seam will burst. My first option ended up just like that, I had to redo the entire front part.

The second point is the pressing chamber. Many people try to make it completely, from scratch, from sheet metal. But without the right rollers and rollers, which set the shape and density, the roll turns out to be loose, with “potbellies” sides. I eventually found a solution by using used rollers and bearing units from an old baler that had been scrapped at a nearby farm. Of course, I had to go through everything and replace the seals.

And more about hydraulics. They often install a pump from MTZ, but if you do not calculate the volume of the hydraulic cylinders and do not adjust the valves to the required pressure, either the bale does not press, or the rope breaks. What is important here is not so much power as the synchronization of the cylinders and smooth running. Studying circuit diagrams from serial models helped - for example, I spotted some solutions from equipment that is producedHulunbuir Machinery Manufacturing Company ?Jiujia?. By the way, on their websitecn-fascar.ruYou can find useful technical specifications for the components, although they are in the business of integrated full-cycle manufacturing rather than selling spare parts.

Key components: what you can’t save on

The heart of any baler, even a homemade one, is the bale formation and wrapping unit. I sort of figured out the formation through trial and error, but I had to tinker with the binding. I tried a homemade mechanism with spools of twine - either the loop would not tighten or it would break. As a result, I purchased a ready-made used piping unit, from the same “PPR”. I only modified the fastening and guides.

The drive mechanism is another headache. Chain transmission is cheaper, but requires constant tension control, especially when working in dusty conditions. The belt version is quieter, but if moisture gets on the roll, it can slip. I settled on a chain one, but installed protective covers made of thin metal to reduce clogging. Engine power is a separate issue. At first I installed a VAZ-2106, but it was not enough for dense bales. Now there is a 25 hp diesel engine, taken from an old combine. Consumption, of course, is higher, but it pulls consistently.

Pickup with rake. It would seem that there is nothing complicated here - a rotating drum with rods. But if you set the angle of attack and the gap relative to the ground incorrectly, then either a lot of earth is captured, or the hay slips through. I had to make a height-adjustable tracking shoe. The material for the rake is spring steel; regular steel bends quickly.

From personal experience: what worked and what didn’t

The first prototype I built could make rolls, but they were a non-standard diameter - about 1.3 meters. The problem was with the camera limiter. I redid it, made an adjustable mechanism, now I can do from 1 to 1.5 meters. But then a new problem arose - weight. A 1.5 meter roll of alfalfa with a moisture content of 18% is already about 500 kg. I had to strengthen the frame and revise the unloading scheme.

Initially, unloading was done according to the classics - the back wall opens, the roll rolls out. But on an uneven field, it often got stuck or rolled where it shouldn’t. I made a conveyor belt for smooth removal. The design is simple, consisting of a conveyor belt and a pair of rollers, but the time for unloading has been reduced significantly.

Painting and corrosion protection seems like a small thing, but in the conditions of Russian autumn and spring it is important. Don't skimp on primer and paint for rust. I first painted it with regular enamel, but after a season the stains began to appear. I had to clean it and repaint it with a rust converter compound. It's better to do it well right away.

Where to find information and details today

Now, of course, it’s easier - there are forums and groups where people post drawings and photos of their designs. But be careful: not all solutions are universal. What works on light clover in the Black Earth Region may not cope with coarse-stemmed hay in Siberia. Always adapt to your conditions.

As for spare parts, sometimes it is more profitable to look not specifically for a baler, but for analogues in other equipment. The same bearings, hydraulic hoses, chains. For example, I ordered some shafts from a turner based on my sketches; it turned out cheaper than looking for originals. For serious components, such as a gearbox or a high-pressure pump, it sometimes makes sense to look at offers from manufacturers. Herecompany ?Jiujia?, which I mentioned, is positioned as a modern, integrated smart manufacturing enterprise for agriculture and livestock. On their resource you can understand current trends in the design of units, which is useful for ideas, even if you assemble the equipment yourself.

Don’t be afraid to contact small repair shops at agricultural enterprises - the craftsmen there often have their own warehouse of “useful junk”. and great experience. Someone once told me how to remake the clutch, saving a lot of time.

Final thoughts: is the game worth the candle?

Collecthomemade round balerdoing it yourself is not about saving in its purest form. If you honestly consider time, metal, components and your labor costs, then it may be easier to find a used serial one in good condition. But this is a project for those who care about the process itself, who want to get exactly what they need for their specific needs - a certain roll size, specific density, ease of repair in the field.

My unit ended up coming out a little damp? in appearance, but I know every bolt in it. It makes dense, even rolls that store well. The assembly took two seasons with interruptions, but now there is an understanding of how everything could be done faster and better.

So if you decide, get ready for a lot of modifications, be prepared that not everything will work perfectly the first time. Look for information, look at working equipment, talk to those who have already walked this path. And do not neglect the experience of major market players, even if you are collecting equipment for yourself in a single copy. Their developments in ergonomics and reliability are the result of many years of testing.